Bradley Mickey Mouse Watch

Back in the day even children’s watches were mechanical

This is a Mickey Mouse watch made by Bradley from the 1970’s. Like most of the watches I’ve worked on it is a manual wind movement (quartz movements still being a bit pricey at the time of manufacture). The movement is a Baumgartner 134 which is Swiss made, but instead of using a Swiss Lever escapement, this movement utilizes the cheaper Pin-pallet escapement.

IMG_0685I picked this piece up from eBay in non-working condition and when it arrived in the post it was clear why. The crown wouldn’t budge even a bit and the telltale sign of liquid ingress was visible on the dial.

Eager to discern the extent of the damage, I went to work straight away. The case was a beast to get open but it finally gave in and released the movement following a bit of coaxing from my Swiss army knife.

The dial was secured with two screws which pass through the face and thread into the  bottom plate.  Most watches aren’t assembled this way, but the screws are hidden beneath the bezel.

Normally the dial is secured from beneath

I knew I was in trouble as the dial lifted away from the movement- the bottom plate was clearly stained with rust.

Uh-oh, lots of rust here

It really doesn’t take much rust to ruin a mechanical watch. The pivots for the gear train and balance wheel are quite small and will oxidize in a heartbeat. Even if the pivots are salvageable with burnishing, the pivot holes will need to be re-bushed to accept narrower pivots without excess play; in most cases that just isn’t a economically feasible solution.

The top plate looked a bit better. Perhaps when the water entered this watch it was left sitting face down?

Top plate, note the wonderfully long arched click spring

Despite being a children’s watch, the movement is quite robust and well engineered. There is not a single wire spring inside and I was particularly impressed with the design of the keyless works. All the parts are large and easy to work with when compared to a typical service piece.

I began my disassembly by removing the ratchet and crown wheel from the top plate.

Top plate cleared
Side view of the balance wheel, pallet, and escape wheel

Next off was the balance cock then the top plate. Beneath I found more rust.

Lots of rust around where the stem comes through

Removal of the barrel uncovered the worst of the damage.

Quite a bit of rust here

This was not pleasing, but the pivots on gear train seemed to be okay and the escape wheel was unaffected so the parts didn’t go into the rubbish bin just yet.

Other gremlins hid inside the mainspring barrel. I’m not sure how the tail of the spring became so damaged.

Goodness, what happened here?
Teardown complete

Before sending the parts off for cleaning I snapped a picture of the pallet and escape wheel for this piece next to the same parts from a Swiss Lever escapement. The simplicity of the Pin-pallet design is apparent.

Pin-pallet with escape wheel at top, Swiss lever with escape wheel at bottom

The bits and pieces cleaned up nicely so I began assembly.

I’ve managed to clean out most of the rust residue

The mainspring in this movement is particularly long, a replacement was readily available from Cousins.

This may be the longest mainspring I’ve seen

With the new mainspring installed and the gear train in place it was time for the top plate.

This one cleaned up quite nicely

It was now time to deal with the cap jewel. This movement is a single jewel movement; the pivots for the balance wheels rest on brass bearings and the lower pivot is capped with a disk of polished steel. The top pivot is capped with a standard ruby cap jewel, but the shock spring is a pain to replace. Fortunately harsh language seemed to do the trick.

Cap jewel without shock spring

It was time to fire up the engine. The results on the timegrapher were not spectacular but there really isn’t a compelling reason to revisit the work; I can live with the watch gaining or losing a minute or two a day. Hopefully as the lubricants are distributed the amplitude will rise a bit. I’m not sure I can fix the jittery beat.

Not sure what to expect here as this is my first Pin-pallet repair

A replacement dial and case were sourced from a donor which was internally in worse shape. The dial is much prettier and the plating on the case is free of wear.  I like the silver color as well.

The crown is white gold- I’ve since found a proper chrome plated replacement

Author: JPMoeller

Amateur watchmaker and California resident

10 thoughts on “Bradley Mickey Mouse Watch”

  1. You seem to get good at these fun watches ……….. out with the boring chrono’s !! :-)))))
    I think they are great and well worth preserving ……… mind you, probably meant as disposable watches, how many will be left in say 50 years time? Just like (mint) Dinky Toys ………..


  2. Curious if you can give me a little more info on the watch. I’ve recently inherited a Bradley Swiss Made #23 Mickey watch from my mother and I’m trying to find a band for it. Do you know if the band is 12 mm or 13? I can’t quite tell. Also, the case is a little corroded and the glass above the face has a significant scratch on it. Do you have any advice on cleaning or conserving the case and maybe replacing the glass?


    1. Sorry for not responding to you earlier Mike, but I’ve spend the last few days scrounging around the house looking for the watch and I simply cannot find it. I gave the watch to my daughter- and we had it in hand just a couple of days ago but cannot seem to locate it now. If it turns up within the next couple of days I’ll measure the lugs and let you know what the size is. Very sorry I couldn’t help today!


  3. I found my mickey watch my father had bought and told I couldn’t have until I was 18. Well, I’m 42 now. Still nice. Never got to wear. How much you think it is worth.


  4. I have the very same watch from when I was a kid. Wondering if you could tell me the part number for the mainspring that you ordered from Cousins. Thanks!


  5. I have an original Bradley 1972 youths Mickey Mouse watch numbered 62 I received on my 8th birthday of that year(my first watch)it hasn’t run for years,where can I get this repaired?


    1. Any watchmaker who works on mechanical watches should be able to have a look at it. Be prepared for sticker shock though- watch repairs are labor intensive and finding old parts can sometimes be an issue. If the piece has sentimental value it’s probably worth the price though.


      1. Hey! I’m wondering how to open the caseback on this piece? Is it a SnapBack, or screw off? Doesn’t seem to want to snap off when I try…



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